Monday, January 13, 2020
Sustainable Fashion
One of the most heavily discussed topics, in this last decade, is the environmental decay of our planet. Diverse concepts have materialized in order to find solutions for the problem. Ecology and sustainable growth have been confirmed to be the main solutions currently. Innovations for sustainable growth include: creation of hybrid cars, recycling and minor discharge of carbon dioxide in factories among others (Christ 23). Environmental awareness was also introduced to the world of fashion, unfortunately, it wasnââ¬â¢t very successful; lately there has been a change of situation and that is what we are going to attempt to understand. For almost twenty years now, people have been relying on fast fashion, a fairly new notion, which entails rapid garment production in a cost efficient manner. This efficiency is attained through the retailers understanding of the customerââ¬â¢s wants, which consist in having high fashion looking garments at reasonable prices. Lots of stores have mission statements that endorse this concept of affordable high fashion such as Zara, Mango and H&M and so forth, they are very successful worldwide, has completely taken over; this position for fashion is at its most of unsustainability, as Sandy Black says: ââ¬Å"The production and consumption of fashion represent the two extremes of a very long, fragmented and complex supply chain that transforms fiber into yarn and fabrics, which is mediated by designers, manufacturers and buyers into the clothing on offer at retail. â⬠. Fast and cheap fashion implies more disposability, which incites more consumption. Therefore, when eco friendly fashion made its appearance, people werenââ¬â¢t convinced because it looked too cheap and unfashionableââ¬âââ¬âwhen envisioning eco fashion, people automatically associated it with a variation of earthy colors (brown, khaki, grey, etc. ), highly flammable fabrics, to cut a long story short, people thought of them as ugly. It is an eco friendly clothing cliche. Hence, a global pejorative connotation built up over time and these clothes were perceived as cheap which also meant that they were unfashionable in some way. Sustainable fashion isnââ¬â¢t an entirely new phenomenon, we know that past generations recycled clothing without knowing it; when there were special occasions, they would take their casual clothes and add ornaments and all kinds of things to make their garment look dressierââ¬âââ¬âthey knew how to transform theyââ¬â¢re clothesââ¬âââ¬â Also in families with siblings, most of the time, the younger ones wore ââ¬Å"hand me downsâ⬠from their older siblings, some people still do it now. The point is, back then they knew how to remodel something they already had as well as create something new; and we kind of lost that for a few years with the rise of fast fashion. However, nowadays with this eco movement, it is all becoming about knowledge once again; Today on numerous fashion blogs and sites (HonestlyWTF. com; ecouterre. com; woolandthegang. com and many more) people can find the DIY (Do it Yourself) category, it gives us all the steps on how to create fashion items that are trendy and/or featured on the site/blog. In general, the materials needed to create DIY pieces are ones that we are most likely to have already, so we can recycle. Currently, people still shop of course but they also spare time for things they can put together themselves. Eco fashion reflects a natural change of values. Another solution for being ââ¬Å"greenâ⬠in fashion is to reduce the impact of washing and aftercare. As Black explains: ââ¬Å"With most clothes we wear close to the body, the environmental impact of washing, drying and ironing is far greater than the manufacture of the items themselves, so any reduction in washing needs can be very significant in terms of carbon footprint. With nano-coatings and treatments, clothes can be made stain and dirt repellent and reduce their need for frequent washing. This potential longer life using less energy needs to be balanced with the fact they will not be able to be recycled after use. Basically, Black tells us there is another answer to maintaining our clothes; it is eco-friendly on one point of view and not from another point of view. The fact that it is possible to treat the clothes for them to simply not be able to receive dirt is eco friendly on long term because that means we wouldnââ¬â¢t need to wash the clothes as much but then th ose same clothes cannot be recycled and that is not eco friendlyââ¬âââ¬âIs it better to keep clothes as they are and waste more energy or to treat them but not recycle them after use? It is a dilemma. Finding an exact definition for the terms ââ¬Å"sustainable fashionâ⬠. ââ¬Å"Greenâ⬠, ââ¬Å"Eco fashionâ⬠to a name a few, is close to impossible. We all have the impression everyone understands it the same way but it is false, it has different meanings for all of us. The word sustainability itself implies some sort of length, in the sense that something can last long, it also. Here are some of the definitions people have of sustainable fashion: ââ¬Å"Quality items that stand the test of time ââ¬â it is this concept of sustainability, symbolized by a timeless handbag that ou wear again and again, and can pass on, that I am always thinking of when I design. â⬠Says Frida Gianni Accessories are a very important part of fashion and should be considered so a good example for this definition of sustainable would be the Hermesââ¬â¢ Birkin bag. The Birkin bag is a highly exclusive handmade bag from France; it is very expensive because of its exclusivity but al so because of how it is constructed and the materials used to put it together. These bags are made of calf leather, ostrich, crocodile, and lizard and are a symbol of wealth due to their high prices and elusiveness to the public As Black says ââ¬Å"Fashion is full of contradictionsââ¬âââ¬âit is ephemeral and cyclic, referencing the past but constantly embracing the new; it represents an expression of personal identity and difference, while also demonstrating belonging to a group [â⬠¦]â⬠. ââ¬Å"Sustainable fashion implies a commitment to the traditional techniques, and not just the art, of making clothes. I work today in the same way that I first learnt in the ateliers of Balenciaga and Lanvin 50 years ago. We need to ensure that the next generation of seamstresses and tailors have the skills necessary to develop clothes that are not only beautiful but extremely well made. â⬠Says Oscar de la Renta, Oscar de la Renta and Frida Giannaââ¬â¢s definitions are quite similar, although de la Renta is specific about clothing. According to him, what truly makes a garment sustainable is the way it was crafted. As mentioned previously, a few years back, the fashion may have been slower but the garments were carefully created with ââ¬Å"traditional techniquesâ⬠, therefore they lasted much longer than fast fashion pieces. This type of clothing is still available but only to a certain crowd; pieces that are meticulously sewn are most likely to be found in the expensive range of clothing (Couture or designer wear). ââ¬Å"I would define the ideal as locally sourced materials that donââ¬â¢t pollute in their creation or demise (preferably recycled) and with limited transportation to achieve the completed product. Says Anya Hindmarch, initiator of the ââ¬Å"I am not a plastic bagâ⬠initiative. With her campaign (I am not a plastic bag), Hindmarch designed a tote bag and used her influence in a positive way to make it fashionable not to use plastic bags. ââ¬Å"Most of what we may currently refer to as sustainable fashion is a contradiction in terms. It refers to how the fabric used for a new garment has been produced â⬠¦ Yet, I believe, we need to consider this issue from a more macro and profound perspective. Though cotton may be unbleached, we need to examine how it arrives to the manufacturer or to us the wearer. What was the ââ¬Ëcarbon imprintââ¬â¢ of its delivery, for example? â⬠Says Dries van Noten. Dries van Noten doesnââ¬â¢t think that changing the method of production for a garmentââ¬â¢s fabric is enough to claim its sustainability; the fabricââ¬â¢s ââ¬Å"journeyâ⬠should also be considered otherwise there is no major difference between fast fashion and eco fashion. It is well know that fast fashion products are most likely to be manufactured in foreign countries for more production and lower cost and that is exactly the opposite of what the eco movement is about. When the eco movement first appeared in the food industry, people had to be educated on how it better to consume products that are locally produced to reduce carbon imprint among other reasonsââ¬âââ¬âthe same thing has to be done, when it comes to fashion because people are unaware if they donââ¬â¢t inform themselves. With all these definitions above we cannot say that one is true or false they are all relevant in a way. All that can be observed is that most of the time when people approach the subject of sustainability, ethical, green and whatnot, their definitions are closer to the ones that Anna Hindmarch and Dries van Noten provided. The Eco movement in general, has now gone from being just a trend to a lifestyle. We can be ââ¬Å"greenâ⬠in every aspect of our lives now; people are trying to combat the fastness of our lives with it; to be more specific, they are privileging the Eco movement to go against, the fastness of our economic development and the associated mass production. Eco friendly fashion in not only about tangible aspect, which is the material that is used when and how it is also about the human aspect, the ethical characteristic it has which respects social standards such as limited working hours or minimum wages; Ethically correct production also means child labor is forbidden. Back to the material side of things, sustainable fashion supports cotton farming, and the changeover to more environmentally friendly materials and dyes. As mentioned anteriorly, sustainable fashion also includes recycled materials used to create new ones. People are craving lifestyles based on health and sustainability. Today, when looking for new products, customers not only look for quality and design but also ecological awareness. Green designed products are a path into the green lifestyle which now combines once opposing fields eco and fashion. Environmental awareness has taken over every aspect of our everyday life: fashion is the latest target. Therefore the rise of Eco chic makes perfect sense, it was bound to happen. People want to promote the fact that they are green and show that they are in style. However, it not only about the physical aspect now, people also want to show off their good conscience or sometimes they simply care when it comes to ethical fashion ââ¬âââ¬â Ethical fashion is healthy, sustainable, and fair. Eco chic clothes tend to be more expensive than regular clothing so people also like to showà ¬Ã ¬ ââ¬âââ¬â especially in these hard financial timesââ¬âââ¬â that they can still afford expensive clothes. Having noted designers join the movement by the creations has really increased peopleââ¬â¢s desire to be green. It looks like sustainable fashion is attracting more people; the future of this movement is very promising.
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